Cahors - Ancient and Beautiful Capital of the Quercy

History:

Cahors is strategically situated in a loop of curvaceous river Lot, surrounded by hills. Northern roads lead straight to Paris, just south of Toulouse and on to the Pyrenees mountain passes and busy ports in the Mediterranean Sea. Westward along the river is the great wine-producing town and the port of Bordeaux. To the east, the wild and beautiful Causses and the foothills of the Massif Central.

It was in this advantageous spot that the old strain of Cadurci decided to settle in around 800BC. Many researchers argue that it was from the first settlers to Cahors and Quercy take their names. Others argue that Quercy comes from the Latin quercus, which means oak, a reference to the oak, to romp across the landscape. Either way, both Cahors and Quercy even old settlements.

Romans, predictably, marched their legions of country more than two thousand years ago and it was they who planted the first vines in the first century AD (Cahors - The Black Wine). They have also built the first ramparts and renamed the city Divona Cadurcorum after the old spring "Fons Divona." It is now called the Fontaine des Chartreux and even in these modern times, it still gives the city's water supply. You can still see some Roman ruins, and instead of the old Roman bridge, just east of the Pont Louis-Philippe.

Heyday of this gorgeous old town came in the fourteenth century when a local boy, was Jacques Dueze Pope John XXII, and defines its place in the papal palace in Avignon. It was he who called the great flourishing trade, the Lombard bankers and merchants. The Caorsins. It was also during this Pope's strong influence, the architecture flourished. The main trading partners houses, university, and of course the city's signature building, the wondrous Pont de Valentre, were all built at this time.

During the nineteenth century, Cahors was once a wave of energy. The old walled ditch, which originally ran in the middle of the 'loop' was filled in to allow the creation of green trees, street, which now forms the main street of town. It was named after another local boy made good, born on 2 April 1838 and now towers over the central square, cast in bronze. Leon Gambetta.

Café Life:

One of the truly great pleasures of southern France is sitting outside a busy cafe basking in the sun while you sip your Perrier or café crème. Cahors is the perfect place to do it. Along the beautiful, plane tree lined Boulevard de Gambetta, you will find many small cafes. My favorite is the place where I can sit with the sun warm on my back looking rainbows dance in the large fountain, my market basket bursting at the seams, and a serving of short sleeve shirt performs miraculous balancing acts with his little tin tray. There are plenty of small cafes to choose from, all have good food and good wine, and no one will ever hurry out of your chair if you want to linger and enjoy the atmosphere.

Sights in the city:

Once you've assuaged your thirst, you're ready for a little sight-seeing, and this is a charming place to wander and absorb the history and culture:

Pont de Valentre:

This medieval masterpiece is the city's hallmark, and arguably the most photographed sights in France, outside Paris. In medieval times it was a well-worn part of the pilgrimage, while traces of Santiago de Compostela and is still used for that purpose even today. An excellent example of fourteenth century architecture, built with the help of the devil ... or so they say. It took a long time to build bridges and the architect began to get a little impatient that he feared that he could never see it finished. So what's a frustrated medieval architecture to make? Enlist the assistance of the devil, of course. The devil promised to help, in return, of course, the architect's eye. But as the project approached completion the architect began to have second thoughts - not so surprising - and tried to back out of its obligations. The devil thus took his revenge by sitting on the central tower, and as masons laid the last stone on the last day, the devil is removed at night. It happened again and again. The devil is still there today, carved in stone and clinging to the tower, so if you cross the bridge, so beware!

Gates and Violence!

You can find these in the north end of Boulevard de Gambetta, and if you are careful with the traffic - and the railroad - can just about follow the rest round the river on the west side, just downstream from the Pont de Valentre.

Cathedral of Saint Etienne and the Marketplace:

Regarded as a brilliant renaissance result, this dual domed cathedral is worth a visit. It started in the twelfth century and dominates the old quarter of town. I suggest that you combine it with a visit to the market, which was held at the place in front of the cathedral every Saturday and Wednesday. It is one of the liveliest and most colorful markets in France. In summer months you can find stalls laden with golden peaches, oversized pepper, lettuce, herbs, flowers, garlic, and all kinds of cheese known to man. Try the local Rocamadour goat's cheese, or the unctuous Bleu des Causses. You will also find a good few bottles of Cahors wine, and can even buy it loose with a liter of tire Halles in the southern end of the market. During the winter months things are a little quieter. Stalls sprout CEPES and truffles, bitter greens and the ubiquitous walnut, in every possible stage of preparation. Try dried sausages, large heads and of course the local ducks and geese.

Mont Saint Cyr:

If you go south of the Boulevard Gambetta you will arrive back at the river and the Pont Louis-Philippe. Glance up as you cross the bridge and you will see the big intimidating cliffs of Mont Saint Cyr. You may or may not feel up to it, but there is a fantastic city views from the summit. An early evening stroll maybe just a little exercise to give you a healthy appetite for dinner in one of Cahors to dozens of delicious restaurants.

The Dueze Palace and Medieval Streets:

Lafayette Place is located near the castle in our local Pope, with his thirty-four meter high tower. Cahors is not a metropolis by any stretch of the imagination, and you can easily walk around the medieval streets on the western side of the boulevard for an hour or two. Try Rue de la Chanterie - and take a look at the Musee de Vin. Stroll down the Rue de la Daurade and Rue Saint Urcisse - collapse outside one of the cafes, if it becomes too hot - so take a look at the remains of Roman baths at Avenue FREYCINET. If you end up in the Rue de Saint Urcisse, take a look at the water clock.

The Secret Gardens:

The city of Cahors has created a tourist path, marked by acanthus leaves gives you the opportunity to visit some beautiful lay out and closed gardens. Starting at the foot of the Pont de Valentré, and go back in time to the days of the Crusades, where pilgrims will come to Cahors to cross the river on their way south to Santiago de Compostela and Jerusalem. The medieval gardens include depictions of Augustinian monks, the Moorish gardens and charming cloistered garden of Henri IV.

Restaurants:

Ready for a relaxing lunch or a delicious dinner? Here are one or two proposals from dozens of restaurants.

The Balandre restaurant at the Hotel Terminus is supposedly one of the best in Cahors. A little formal, and perhaps predictably expensive.

For lunch, try Bordeaux Boulevard de Gambetta. It is always very busy and serves good, inexpensive food.

For an early dinner, take potluck. Stroll east along the river from the Pont Louis-Philippe to the old town, there are plenty of small restaurants here. Divona is good, it's Bistrot de Cahors.

If you want to eat without a sample of the cluster of small restaurants at the end of Rue Saint Urcisse. If they are all full - a tad unlikely - book a later table and while away a pleasant hour or two outside one of the cafes. Sip your Kier or Pasties and listen to the shrill screech of cicadas, the wonderful, evocative sounds of the warm south. Bon Appetit!